![garrard zero 100 plinth garrard zero 100 plinth](https://www.picclickimg.com/d/l400/pict/172624299967_/Garrard-Zero-100-Turntable-Plinth-Original-Real-Wood.jpg)
My friend John had sent me a previously enjoyed AT95 a while back, so that was mounted onto the slide. The contacts are a bit tarnished, but that'll soon clean up. I knew mine was missing, so I'd previously stopped into my favourite purveyor of Garrard bits, and managed to procure a new-old-stock slide. Convenient that is, if you happen to have one. Now the Zero 100, in common with a few other Garrard decks of the time uses a convenient cartridge slide. Looking quite smart now :)įitting a cartridge. Now the arm is given a quick buff up to remove the worst of the corrosion on it's surface, and the brass cover on the counterweight is treated likewise. A replacement is found, dropped, lost and found again before being fitted. Sure enough a tiny screw is missing, which secures the arm tube to the bearing. One screw removes the perspex gimbal surround, allowing a better view. Now because the headshell is articulated, it's never going to be the stiffest tonearm, but this is wobbling around from the pivot end. The headshell actually moves as the arm moves across the record, removing the error. it gives it it's name, Zero tracking error. This is what interests me about this turntable. The motor mounts are still supple, as is the idler, so that's good news. This lever is seized solid, and, once again, needed a bit of hot air to tempt it off. There's more grease to be cleaned up and replaced on the top.
#Garrard zero 100 plinth manual#
The manual speed adjustment knob under the speed selector operates a lever, which moves the idler up and down a tapered section on the motor drive shaft, thus changing the speed. The small plastic window can also be removed and cleaned.Ī quick note on how the speed adjust works. Two screws either side, and it drops down. which are viewed via a mirror in the "subterranian" strobe housing. The platter itself has the strobe markings on it's underside. The deck is flipped back over, and the platter removed, by removing the rubber mat, and removing the wire clip securing the centre spindle. Pretty it isn't, but it's now at least functional. and the following morning, all the gluing seems to be very strong. The clamp is simply holding the top plate flush. Where the plastic top plate is broken off, I used the glue gun to fill the void, and fit a screw through my previous epoxy repair to secure the top plate at the other side. now I take it the UV has only cured the outside part, but it seems to be holding. The bracket is reversed, and bonded to the chassis with some of the UV cure adhesive I've tried before. a change of tack was required, there just isn't enough strength here. as again there were sheered off screw fittings. Once the epoxy had cured it was flattened off, and it was at this point I realised that the top plate was no longer secured to the chassis.
#Garrard zero 100 plinth free#
The speed change detent arm was exceptionally seized up, and required plenty of heat to get it to free up.